Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a international community of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – hidden gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their younger generation do not want to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to discover these stories and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
